Most climbers hike the non technical route halfway up the mountain to a broad shelf known as Lunch Counter in one day, then climb the remaining way to the summit and descend on a second day. Gabe, Jeremy, and I planned a variation of the standard South Spur Route that would include glacier travel, crevasse navigation, and steep snow and ice climbing.
However, when we arrived at the Mt. Adams ranger station Saturday morning, we were informed that the route we'd chosen was closed as it entered seasonally open Indian territory. Also conspiring against us was an oncoming low pressure system and rain forecast for Sunday.
We decided that the summit was our real goal, so we traveled the standard, dog route. We left the trailhead just before 11 am, slightly behind our initial goal. Though it was late June, we hiked less than a mile from the trailhead before hitting snow. The snow was melting in the heat of the afternoon sun, but was firm enough that travel was relatively easy and we made good time.
We made a friend on the way up.
By 3.00 pm, we made it to lunch counter, a 3,900 ft climb over four miles. We were tired from carrying heavy packs loaded with technical climbing and overnight gear. However, with rain in the forecast for Sunday, we decided to set up camp, refuel, then make a push for the summit while we had good weather. We still had a few hours of daylight left and decided a sunset summit would be a great idea.
Unfortunately, the climb from Lunch Counter to Piker's Peak (the false summit) is the longest, steepest section of the climb. It's a sustained slope with sections as steep as 45° that rises 2,000 feet in only one mile. Fortunately, because we were climbing in the evening, the snow on the slope was soft and made for easy steps without crampons. Climbing the frozen slope in the morning would have required crampons and been much more strenuous.
Despite the long day behind us, we made relatively good time up the slope, gaining Piker's Peak in two hours.
From there, a short, slightly downhill hike, then uphill slog gains the summit. This turned out to be the longest part of the day. The altitude and exhaustion were catching up to all of us and our progress slowed. Still, we made reasonable time and gained the summit 45 minutes before sunset. We'd gained 6,900 feet over 5.5 miles in about nine hours. None of us were feeling great and the wind wasn't very friendly, so we took the obligatory summit pictures then began our descent.
We took advantage of some glissading to speed our descent, but the conditions were less than ideal. The snow had begun to refreeze, so the glissade paths were hard and fast. Gabe and I both managed to break buckles on our packs and I wore a hole through the mesh on one of my side pockets, nearly sending my Nalgene down the mountain ahead of me. Despite some difficulties, there was some good glissading to be had and the trip back to Lunch Counter and our camp was relatively uneventful.
Except for one thing.
Though I had forgotten, we were climbing on the night of the super moon. And just as the sun was setting, we were treated to the most incredible view of a mountain shadow I've ever seen. The few clouds in the sky gave way to the moon, making for one of the most awe inspiring views I've ever had and one of the best pictures I've ever taken. The view for this shot was only there for a few minutes and I was fortunate to look up and see it and more fortunate still to capture it.
We made it back to camp just before dark, ate dinner, then promptly climbed into the tent to sleep. When I woke briefly at 3 am, rain was pummeling the tent walls. We'd made the right decision to summit Saturday evening.
Sunday morning came around 6.30 am when we all woke, listening to the rain. It would be a miserable, wet day and our plans to explore the Mazama Headwall and do some technical climbing were instantly cancelled. We took advantage of a lightening rain around 7 to break camp and begin our descent. Just after 9 am, we were back at the car, having descended 3,900 feet and 3.75 miles in an hour-and-a-half. We didn't linger in the rain.
Despite the poor weather on Sunday, we had a great climb and accomplished most of what we wanted to. And I got to check off one more of the Cascade volcanoes.
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