We started our climb under a clear, moonless sky from the Timberline parking lot at 11.45 pm. The outline of the mountain against against a pitch black, starry sky was beautiful and a great reminder of our goal.
We started out on a paved path, but quickly hit firm snow, which was a great sign, as we were concerned with the snow conditions we'd encounter higher on the mountain. Other than a stiff wind around 15-20 mph, the weather was perfect, with temperatures in the mid 20s.
For a team of nine, we made pretty good time, reaching the top of the Palmer snowfield in just over three hours. The great snow conditions and reliable bootpack made the slog a bit less miserable and the climb move much quicker.
We reached the nauseating fumarole of Devil's Kitchen around 4 am. After donning harnesses and wielding ice axes, we headed up the Hogsback. Because of our early start, only one other group was further up the mountain than us. But while they were heading toward the Old Chutes, our route was through the Pearly Gates. Gabe had beta from a Mazama climb on Friday the the Gates were in great condition.
Our only concern was the condition of the Bergschrund. It was wide open and had required stepping across on my previous climb in February. Fortunately, late March & April snows had filled much of it in, so we were able to cross easily on the far right side.
The early start paid off as we made our way up through the Gates around 5 am. First light was just peaking out, illuminating the more technical section of the climb. But, the temperature was still in the 20s, so rock and icefall wasn't a concern.
Everyone had two ice tools, so the whole team made efficient progress through the Pearly Gates. We didn't encounter any hard ice. Some of the snow was airy and thin, but most of it was compact and firm, making for great ax placement.
A layer of low clouds still shrouded Portland and made a great backdrop for the mountain shadow.
We reached the summit at 6 am, just after sunrise and were the first group to reach the summit that day. Perhaps less of a surprise than it should have been, the second group up (that we had seen heading toward the Old Chutes) was lead by SAC member Mike Wilson! We spent a few minutes on the summit enjoying the views, taking pictures, and snacking, but the stiff wind left us all wanting for warmer temperatures.
We decided against descending the Pearly Gates to avoid a potential bottle neck. Gabe planned on scouting the Old Chute, but the catwalk looked to be in particularly poor shape and difficult to self belay on. So, we opted for rappelling down the Mazama Chute.
We placed a picket as a deadman, tied off one end of our 50 meter rope, and were able to rappel all the way out of the chute. Having drawn the short straw, I had to pull the rope and picket and down climb. Traffic in the chutes was starting to pick up, so we were grateful to be heading down the mountain already, thanks again to our early start.
Finally out of the wind and with the sun fully shining, we were all in good spirits as we descended back to Devil's Kitchen.
We made it back to the Timberline parking lot at 10 am, a bit tired, but eager for the beer and burgers that awaited us.
